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ACE Cheered in Germany
by Linda Chapman, American Cheer Express

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New expanses of roadway snaked through the rural countryside while picturesque hills framed the small villages visible in the distance. As we drove towards them, I almost convinced myself that it was Kentucky until the red tiled roofs and timber trimmed adobe houses reminded me that it was indeed "Deutschland," or Germany. Over the next few weeks, the trip I made with the American Cheer Express staff, Michelle Whieldon and BJ Clarke, on their 2004 summer camp tour through Germany would frequently blur the lines between being a student and being a teacher.

On that first day in August, we sped toward our destination, Giessen, a college town north of Frankfurt. Unable to find our hotel, we encountered one of many kind strangers we would meet in the next few weeks. A little lady in a flowered skirt with a car full of maps and books, who spoke excellent English appeared and said, "Follow me!" Fifteen minutes later, she deposited us in front of our hotel, where we tried to demonstrate to her the purpose of our visit. She recognized cheerleading motions, and with a smile and a wave, sped on her way.


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As tired as we were, we liked our hotel immediately. It was not fancy, but sort of a retro modern old building with bleached blond furnishings and plump duvets on the beds. More importantly, it was within walking distance to the Market Platz, or shopping area, and just five minutes from a local Internet Cafe. At breakfast, we met a retired American couple who had come to Germany to teach and shared their many tips on places to eat, sites to see, how much to tip, and how to order bottled water without "gas" or carbonation.

Having arrived on Saturday, we began to explore the town on a cool, foggy, wet morning. It was weather we would come to expect during our trip. Frequently, there would be up to four weather changes in one day. Our American shorts, tank tops, and sandals would never make it out of the suitcases, giving us excuses to purchase warmer German shoes, jackets, and slacks to wear.

Walking through the cobblestone streets, we saw that Germany's town life has been perfected over centuries. There are no slums in the countryside. The narrow streets are restricted mostly to pedestrians and lined with one of a kind shops. Parking on the sidewalk is expected, and smaller cars are very convenient because maneuvering through the tight spaces is very tricky. In fact, there was one model of car so small that it looked chopped in half with no hood. Yet, this was a college town, and hip young stores like H & M were as large as department stores, and Puma leather and suede shoes were to be found everywhere.


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We discovered that we had stumbled into town on festival weekend, and after lunching on grilled bratwursts, we shopped among the throngs of people. Finding only one English speaking person to assist me in translating the fashion sizes, I retired to a sidewalk cafe and consoled myself with a hot Cappuccino and a dish of excellent German ice cream. The ACE staff, however, shopped as if they were possessed. Orange leather and Cranberry corduroy fashions were tempting, while cool pink cashmere and pale blue suede beckoned.

As the sun lowered in the sky, the crowd began gathering around a center stage on the square. Behind the masses, I glimpsed two costumed figures, one of which seemed to be flying through the air as if practicing a partner stunt. But wearing rhinestones? The mystery was soon solved as local dance teams began taking the stage, introduced in German to thunderous applause. We soon saw why.

The dancers were mostly coed teams doing moves we had never seen to American Rock and Roll. We burst out laughing when the soundtrack to Grease suddenly blared from the speakers. Adding a combination of acrobatics and aerobics, the Germans have stolen our rock and roll dance and perfected it. We saw acrobatic tricks like Birds, Stags, and Scoops; just muscled up as their circling bodies and kicking feet rarely stopped moving to the music. It looked like so much fun that we wanted to steal it back. Later, we introduced ourselves and regretted not bringing coed staff ourselves to stunt with them. They responded that they wanted ACE to take them to America to tour. What a hoot! We compromised with an exchange of website addresses.


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On our first camp day, the campers ranged in age from six to sixteen. We faced many challenges in overcoming ability differences, but the older girls progressed to prep cradle, and the younger ones seemed to enjoy the dances and chants. The day flew by, and afterward we drove to the local Wal Mart to replace essentials left at home. It was so strange to be unable to read a single sign in such familiar surroundings, meaning we spent much time searching through the aisles. The product options also seemed much more limited than what we expected at home. In addition, we could not find ribbon, the fruit came from Italy, bottled water was only available carbonated, the carry out food was primarily olives and cheeses, and we had to bag our own purchases. Yet, this Wal Mart sure seemed a hit with the German shoppers.


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The next few days of camp went swiftly by, and after final performances and awards, we packed up and headed south of Frankfurt. Arriving in a cold, pouring rain, we were thrilled to find that this hotel had English speaking TV channels to watch the Olympic Games, English printed magazines, and English speaking staff. Like kids in a candy store, we chattered at our good fortune. It was our first inkling that every few days we would need our "American Dose."

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Hanau, home to the Grimm brothers of fairy tale fame, held its camp in a sports facility with vaulted ceilings and gleaming floors. As at the first camp, this camp staff was warm and welcoming. By camp number two, we had the curriculum perfected, anticipating what material would best suit the camper's needs and how they would be divided.


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On day two, despite rain and cloudy skies, one of the parents escorted us downtown after camp to see the local "castle," Schloss Philippsruhe. To our surprise, it didn't resemble a typical castle at all, but a beautiful mansion and museum, surrounded by manicured gardens, a pond, and a brass gated entry.
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The campers here also worked diligently to reach their goals, and it was difficult to leave our new friends, but camp three awaited us in Western Germany. Using our first day off since arriving in Germany, we booked ourselves into the Heidelberg Marriott for the weekend. The name was comforting even though English was spoken with an accent, the beds still had the duvets, and Champagne was served at breakfast.
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In Heidelberg, we truly became the learners. We learned never to get on public transportation without first knowing our return stop. We learned that not all drivers understand or speak English. We learned that some forms of transportation do not make round trips--the hard way. Map in hand, we had pointed to our hotel address and thought the bus driver understood. But, after half hour on the bus, we were the last passengers to be expelled--high in the hills overlooking the city on the wrong side of the river at 9 o'clock at night. In disbelief, we waited in the dark, empty street, trying to get up the nerve to knock on someone's door and ask for help. How stupid would we seem to them? What if a vampire was on the other side of the door? It seems funny now, but it was such a relief when a second bus arrived just then. The driver took pity on us and even told us when to get off at our stop.

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Continuing on to Western Germany, we found that it contains many rural and pastoral scenes and also has numerous castle ruins to explore and the French for neighbors. Our last campsite was located in a small town resting among beautiful hills, not too far from Trier. The town contained some of the best food we encountered on the trip. It was not German cuisine; however, but the Ribs which were famous. Visitors come from far and wide to solicit the recipe of the ribs cooked on a spit, which turns endlessly over the fire raging in the restaurant's brick oven. We too were unsuccessful at getting the recipe, but too satisfied with our meal to be disappointed.

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By camp's end, we felt we had accomplished our trip goals in truly making a difference in the way that all the campers on the tour viewed the sport as well as themselves. The campers had been so cute and worked so hard. The results were evident in the pride we heard in a father's voice, the smile on a mother's face, and the joy in a camper's expression when she finally executed a skill or mastered new material.

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After goodbyes to our new friends, we again climbed into the black Opel and roared off for the Autobahn. Our destination was Rothenburg Ob Der Tober, a medieval walled city south of Frankfurt. We discovered on this leg of our trip that the Michelin timeline for it was based on our driving at a speed of between 80-90 miles an hour, which is medium speed for Germany. The Germans make fast, powerful cars and the roads to drive them on. The Porsches, BMW's and Mercedes would swoop down upon us from nowhere, like hungry phantoms on our tails, lights flashing, forcing us to move into the right lane, then roaring on in excess of 120 miles an hour. I found that driving at such speeds meant constant tension because of the risks involved, and our fully loaded Opel Astra seemed barely up to task.

Besides the beauty and charm of the city, Rothenburg offered a night watchman's tour, which included the history and significance of the place, the living conditions during medieval times, and the city's restoration as a tourist destination. Dressed in a hooded black cape and carrying a wicked looking axe-spear weapon, the watchman walked us along the walled streets and amused us with stories of life's daily travails from long ago. He outlined the irony of his role by explaining that in medieval times, his social status would have been that of an outcast, above only that of gravediggers. Pulling out his newly released video, however, this 2004 night watchman detailed our reasons to purchase it and our importance to the livelihood of the residents. Part of the tour passed an Inn with a symbol which he called "Hell." We immediately selected it for our late dinner when he advised, "You don't want to miss having dinner in Hell."


Early the next afternoon, we continued on to Bavaria in southern Germany, my speedometer topping 110 miles an hour. We knew we were close to our destination when jagged, mammoth peaks suddenly appeared on the horizon. They loomed unapologetically as if to say, "This is what real mountains look like." Driving across the border into Austria, we had difficulty finding our hotel in the countryside until an Austrian motorist who spoke English said, "Turn around and follow me." We were glad we did because our hotel had very friendly staff, comfy duvet covered beds, an umbrella covered patio for drinks and dinner, and pet deer in the corral. ACE staff missed the comforts of an Internet cafe, city life, and shopping, but these things were available just across the border.

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Early the next morning, in brilliant sunshine, we set our to tour two of the most famous castles in Europe, Hohenshwangau, built in the 12th Century, and King Ludwig II's Neuschwanstein, a 19th Century model for Disney's famous castles. Situated high atop the mountains in Germany, they looked indeed like fairy tale images. Hohenshwangau was an easy climb, resulting in magnificent views, rooms filled with priceless antiques and murals, and tales of Queens and Kings from long ago. However, we never once dreamed we would have to climb up to see Neuschwanstein on foot--it just happened that way. While one of our party (who shall remain nameless) went to purchase bus tickets and get in line, the rest went to purchase bottled water and to, well, um...shop a little on the way. While waiting for us, Nameless, being courteous, continuously let passengers go in front of him in line. Upon our return, we quickly realized that the busses were running too slowly, and the passengers were too many for us to make our castle tour on time. Too late for a carriage ride as well, we had no choice but to hike it--45 minutes--straight up. This is why cheerleaders should always stay in shape in the off-season.

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Now home again, our memories are like a treasured old yearbook found in the attic. Each page to be re-examined, to be shared with friends, and to be worn to a timeless patina. So enriched by the people we met, the challenges we overcame, and the opportunities we were given, we feel fortunate to have experienced this colorful, vibrant, historical, and diverse teacher called Germany.